If you’re planning a stay in Istanbul, might I suggest you book a stay in one of the best located and most luxurious prisons in the world, the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet. Yes, the building this luxury hotel is housed in was once a prison. These days, its inhabitants can think of nothing worse than having to leave. The only person who might be keen to see you check out is your bank manager as a stay here isn’t exactly cheap. But is it worth it?
It’s been more than 20 years since our last visit to Istanbul, and much has changed. Especially our choice of hotel. Back then we were backpackers and stayed at a run down guest house with a rooftop terrace overlooking Sultanahmet. After staying at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet my concept of what a true 5-star hotel is will be forever changed.
Checking into the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet was a lesson in style, service and precognitive excellence. Flying from Australia takes 26 hours and is, to say the least, an arduous journey. Our early morning arrival at the hotel was not only efficient, but also thoughtful with the offer of refreshments, pastries and snacks delivered to our room on arrival.
Was this because we were reviewing the hotel? No. We saw other weary guests receiving the same kind offer which was provided at no additional charge. We were also offered a day room at the hotel to rest and relax in after our long journey as check in time for our stay was still many hours away.
After a shower in our day room’s marble bathroom and a quick breakfast snack, we were both in need of a nap. Thanks to the heavenly soft bed, we were asleep in seconds. After spending a relaxing afternoon and evening at the hotel, we woke early the next morning to the sound of a (very muffled) call to prayer and the usual European jetlag.
We decided an early sojourn around Sultanahmet before a relaxing brunch was just what we needed. Luckily, our less-than-humble abode of the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet was perfectly located in the best sightseeing location in the whole of Istanbul.
Less than a few minutes’ walk away there was the stunning Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and the Topkapi Palace. The city was sleeping in aside from the faithful attending prayers and a furry local on the hunt for a morning meal. Returning to the hotel feeling more in sync with the local time after walking around in the sun, we took in our stunning hotel and unique room.
To say the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet is just another five-star hotel is the ultimate understatement. It’s a refined definition of a boutique hotel but with a true sense of place and also history. We would rate this as one of the best places we’ve ever stayed and it’s now our favourite hotel (sorry Ritz Paris). High praise indeed.
Consisting of only 65 rooms (including 17 suites) and originally a prison that housed political prisoners, it is a study in Neo-Classical style. When reimagining as a hotel, the designers styled the rooms, public spaces and dining venues in true Turkish style with artwork from local artists, bathrooms like traditional hammams and refined decor that was both opulent and understated.
Our suite was definitely on the opulent and refined side, with a second storey housed in what was once the former warden’s room. The Beyzade Suite was a two-level masterpiece of heavenly comfort with enough room to swing multiple local felines and the bathroom of our dreams. The lowest category rooms (we stayed in one when we first arrived) are beautiful too, so don’t worry if you can’t afford a suite.
With the downstairs area of our suite devoted to lounging, a dining room and a powder room, and a stunning wooden staircase that delivered us to an open king-size bedroom, cupboard storage area and the magnificent bathroom, we knew we would never want to leave. If you aren’t good with stairs, this suite won’t suit you but we absolutely loved it.
Tearing ourselves away from our beautiful accommodation was an effort, but the lure of history, local treasures and those iconic Istanbul landmarks did the trick. If you want to know more about seeing the sights, check out our review of the Istanbul MegaPass which we used for sightseeing around town.
During our previous stay in 2002 we spent as much time outside our dodgy hotel room as possible. This time we didn’t want to leave where we were staying. However, fortunately we didn’t need to stay away too long as the highlights of Sultanahmet were only a short stroll away.
The amazing location made the expense of this hotel worth every cent. We loved the convenience of Istanbul’s iconic structures all being close by and being able to return in minutes for refreshments, a (comfortable) bathroom break and possibly a sweet treat or coffee in our room before we headed out to explore another nearby world-famous attraction.
For dining, the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet has two options. Avlu, a modern Middle Eastern restaurant, is the main dining area where we went for breakfast every day and dinner on our final night. Lingo Lingo is a smaller bar that also serves food, plus there’s a patisserie in the lobby near reception. We can attest the cakes here are excellent.
It’s at AVLU that we got to indulge in perhaps one of the best breakfasts of any hotel we’ve stayed at. With a mix of buffet and à la carte options that included Turkish and Western choices, we loved chatting to the staff and getting their recommendations, and trying the local cuisine. We learned a lot thanks to them being so generous with their knowledge. The other great thing about the breakfasts at this hotel is the inclusion of excellent barista coffee. We had multiple cups to help us get over our jetlag.
For lunch and in the evening, Avlu also sets the benchmark for innovative modern Turkish dishes that are worthy of their Michelin star. Yes, the cost is of dining here is on the high side, but as they say, you only live once, and your bank account will recover. We had a fabulous and memorable meal here and loved the innovative dishes which tasted as good as they looked.
If you enjoy a drink with a view, the stunning rooftop bar is the place to be with 360-degree views of Istanbul and Hagia Sophia. Wine costs around AU$30 a glass but it’s worth the spend for that stunning view. We loved this bar so much that we came here two nights in a row. Next time we visit Istanbul, we’ll be coming up here again as watching the sunset over Hagia Sophia is magical. Top tip: You don’t need to be a guest of the hotel to come here for a drink. Don’t miss it!
Other facilities at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet include a small but beautiful spa and a 24-hour fitness centre. Another key advantage of staying at the Four Seasons in Istanbul is its multiple properties in the city allow you to use each hotel’s different facilities.
This is particularly good in relation to the pool at the hotel’s sister property on the Bosphorus. There’s no pool at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet but the one at the other Four Seasons is beautiful. A complimentary Mercedes transfer between the hotels is available at select times. We popped over to the Bosphorus hotel for a swim and caught the transfer back a few hours later.
A stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet is an experience and not just a place to sleep and eat. To take in everything this property and the surrounding area has to offer, a minimum ‘incarceration’ of three days in this glorious historic prison is recommended. If you’re like us, you’ll be wishing you could extend your ‘prison sentence’ when it is time to check out.
Disclosure: The writers stayed as guests of the Four Seasons for two nights and paid for their third night at the hotel. They would pay to stay at this hotel again at their own expense in a heartbeat.
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